11 States 11 Days
Jul. 14th, 2013 06:18 pmWe did it! We drove across and around the damn country and it was pretty great. We left, what, two Wednesdays ago. The first day was just driving. A lot of driving. Across Arkansas, across Oklahoma, across Kansas, and a little bit into Colorado. The drive was just fine. You hear a lot of things about how horrible that part of the country is to drive across. That it's so so boring. It actually wasn't that bad. It had its own sort of beauty. It was less that you were driving across nothing, but one monolithic singularity. The vastness was something in and of itself. It was entracing to look at. And the sky. So much sky. You can lose yourself staring into it. I got pulled over just into Oklahoma. But the guy ended up being pretty nice and only gave me a warning. Phew. It was kinda stupid, 'cuz I'm driving along, not going terribly fast but I look over and see it's a cop that I'm next to and passing. Then his lights came on. Doh. Mary Beth's car doesn't have cruise control and that came at a point when I wasn't monitoring the speed so closely anymore. We stopped off somewhere late that night, as I said, a little bit into Colorado. We woke up and drove the next few hours to Denver.
Denver was a bit dinkier than I was expecting as a city. I don't know why I was expecting more. But after my initial impression and being in it a little while, I started to enjoy it and find its own charm. The first thing we did when we pulled into town was eat at this place called Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs. It's Denver's version of Hot Doug's. It was some damn good stuff too. I had a dog that was rattlesnake and pheasant and the toppings were like cactus and stuff. Mmmm. And they had a Boylan's soda fountain. Mmmm. We walked around the street it was on a little bit. We went to find Wax Trax. I had a little trouble finding anything to buy. I did like the way they labeled their cards with information and stuff. I did end up getting Talking Heads: The Name of This Band Is Talking Heads. Mary Beth apparently found a great bookstore next door but they were just closing when she got there. Also, talking to the people there she found out that The Denver food to get is green chile fries. We stored this information for later use. We had some downtime at some bar (Cheeky Monk). Then we cruised down the street that has all the stuff on it. Down at the end of it (or the stuff anyway), we went to Tattered Cover (the bookstore people talk about). I got a few used ones: A High Wind in Jamaica by Richard Hughes, Homesick by Eshkol Nevo, Northern Lights by Tim O'Brien, and Butcher's Crossing by John Williams. Next door was another record store (Twist & Shout). The feel of the place was a lot cheesier than Wax Trax, but in the end I had an easier time finding stuff: Tangerine Dream: Encore, Francis Bebey: African Electronic Music 1975-1982, and Erik Satie: Piano Works (a 5 disc box, maximizing my minimalism). Then there was another bookstore we had seen at the other end of the street Mary Beth had wanted to get back to, but I took to long looking for cds and it was just closing when we got there. Oops. We also saw something down the street that looked like it should be one of these arcade bars that are apparently things in multiple cities. It was called 2 Up (in arcade font) but the building was very nondescript. Well, it sure as hell was an arcade bar! It was much less nerd-fantasy decor than Ground Kontrol had been. Aside from the walls of machines, it had the "decor" of a standard dive bar. I actually liked it in its own way. Very low key. I played my $5 worth of coins and had my fun playing games terribly. It turns out to be the second location of an arcade bar called (surprise) 1 Up. More on that later. Well, now it's eating time. Mary Beth had two places picked out and they were both closed (for the holiday, I guess). Well, now we wanted to try Denver's green chile fries so I made use of my new smart phone (this damn thing helped out so much on our trip, awesome) and found a place to go for it. Oh, it's closed too. We found ANOTHER place and this time we were much luckier: Pete's Satire Lounge. Not sure what it had to do with satire or lounging, but it was a good Mexican restaurant and the green chile fries were incredible (and they filled us up so much we didn't have any more room for our main courses). Okay, getting kinda late, better check into our damn hotel. It was this round tower kinda sorta similar to the place we stayed in Philly that time. And it was right next to Mile High Stadium. Well, our day in Denver just happened to be the Fourth of July so we're getting into our hotel as it's night and fireworks are going off all around us all over the city. Many from the stadium right next door, some from other locales around the city. The hotel staff knew who we were immediately because we were the last to check in for the day. Our room was facing downtown so there's fireworks all across the city. Some probably from the amusement park right in front of us along the little stream of a river. Some from the baseball stadium to our left. Some from somewhere off in the distance over to the right. Some sounds from the next door stadium (off to the right where we couldn't see from the room). Anyway, I'm not super into fireworks or anything, but there was something a little magical about the incidental nature of it all. Back out to the city. Mary Beth wanted to try this bar in a hotel downtown. It was very crowded, but it was all art deco'd out. When we left it was kinda crazy 'cuz the holiday festivities were ending and everybody was going home or to drink or whatever. We were nearby, so we thought we'd try the 1 Up bar. It's also right next to the baseball stadium, one of the centers of the evening's happenings. Didn't get to see the bar really. It's somewhat subterranean, we could see inside a little bit, but it was too crowded to get into. And lots of fratty types, where we were and the timing and all (though I read something about how that location is a bit like that and that's why 2 Up is better). Well, it was fun to know it's there anyway. Back to our moderately (for us) fancy hotel to sleep.
Now it's Friday and time to drive up to Idaho for the wedding. This brought us driving through Wyoming. Holy crap. Wyoming is one of the most beautiful states I've ever seen. The constant contrast of so much open plain and so much mountain hitting up against each other everywhere. It's silly, but this drive was a major highlight of the trip. In some ways, the landscape reminded me of my distant memories of New Zealand: the green, the hills, the rolling countryside. Then Idaho was beautiful in a way I wasn't expecting either. Kinda similar to Wyoming, but some differences. The first, major thing you notice is as soon as you cross the border...there are people. Oh yeah, I should remark on the town of Opal, WY pop. 96. Also, in Idaho we were more within the mountains. They were also softer somehow than the mountains of Wyoming. It was more pastoral. It reminded me of what I imagine the Irish countryside looks like. We got in pretty late and checked into our hotel and I looked at my phone to see if we could find someplace to eat and we did: Portneuf Valley Brewing. A little restaurant/brewery. They even make their own sarsaparilla. It was really good. It had a deep, complex flavor. The texture was a little weird (a goofy word for a liquid, I know). It wasn't very carbonated and didn't have quite the feel of a soda, but the taste helped balance that out. Okay, hotel and sleep.
Now comes Saturday and the whole reason for the trip. The wedding. First we get up to have breakfast at this place next door to the hotel called Elmer's. Didn't look like it from the outside, but turned out to be a chain (though only in the far west). It was pretty good and I even got to have "german pancakes" ("dutch baby" as I'm used to Mary Beth calling it when she makes it, never seen it anywhere out before though). Then we cruised around to check out the town. We found a little bookstore nearby where I picked up a couple: Aberration of Starlight by Gilbert Sorrentino and Obabakoak by Bernardo Atxaga. We ended up in the old downtown area, which was cute. Peeked in a thrift store. Peeked in a music gear store. Peeked in another bookstore. This one was better than the first. Big and old and stacked with shelves and shelves of books. And the old proprietress, a half-deaf hippie woman. Didn't end up getting anything myself though. I did like the feel of the place. Then it was time to rush back and get ready for the wedding. It was at the ski area Sarah's parents own and where she pretty much grew up, I guess. Up on a mountain, of course. The drive up was pretty nice and we got there faster than expected. The place wasn't like I'd imagined. I guess I have movie/tv images of ski resorts, all fancy and large etc. But it was small and felt like remote campground facilities. You know, just a center for people when they go skiing. The ceremony was held in a very small field next to the lodge on the mountainside. The view was abso-fucking-lutely incredible. I mean, you're just looking out across an expanse of mountains and valleys and it was pretty breathtaking. It was actually really hot up there. The sun, pretty much the whole trip, was a present force. Waiting for the wedding to start, we were all seated out there in the field. I was wearing the damn suit I'd dragged across the country just for this moment. While waiting, I took off my jacket. The actual ceremony was one of the nicer I've been to. It was what they called "hybrid-Jewish." Probably mostly Jewish at core, but incorporated other stuff too. Nate enjoyed being able to step on a glass. The reception was nice. We sat next to the only other couple from Memphis (though TFA implants from Wisconsin). We did eventually slow dance to "Spanish Lullabye." It was a lovely evening. Then back to our hotel.
Okay, so now we're off Sunday morning to go down to Utah. We got to eat at an actual Del Taco (not bad for roadside food). Before Salt Lake City, we did a nature excursion to Antelope Island on the lake. It was yet another great experience. The island has a large plain and some large hills with a few small roads. There was this buffalo just hanging out a little off one of the roads (to "Buffalo Point" no less). We looked at him and it was cool. Then we went to Buffalo Point which was one of those large hills and climbed up and climbed and could see everything expanding away from us. (I could even see the buffalo in the same spot, but now a black speck). Afterwards, sure enough, Buffalo Friend was still there and we stopped and (I) got a closer look. He was laying down now. But after a little bit, he shook around and gave himself a sand bath and got back up again. Okay, now we're heading back to SLC, which we're pretty close to. First thing when we get in town is to go to this bookstore, but it was all new stuff and I didn't get anything. Then there was this nearby record store I checked out. Skater/punk/metal fare. All the cds were behind the counter where I had to strain to still not see them. Then the dude told me they don't really buy cds anymore. Well, we went to try out a different part of town. I looked up a record store that seemed much better. Hm. Where is it? Oh, it closed a year ago. Okay, We went to Squatters which was another brewery. They also made a root beer. It was also very good. It wasn't quite as flavorful as the last but it did have a sharper fizzy feel which was nice. Next we found a hotel to check into amongst things. Then we went to The place to eat in SLC: Red Iguana. They had a bunch of different mole sauces and we ate and ate and stuffed ourselves beyond recognition. We went to one bar after that that should have been open but wasn't so we went to another bar. It had the cool feature of having a strip of coldness along the bar (all iced over) to keep your drinks cooler longer. I only had a water to put on it though. It was called Beehive Pub. I had no idea before this trip that Utah was such a beehive state. Now, as a city, I thought SLC was pretty lame, but the surrounding nature in Utah was pretty awesome.
It's, what, Monday morning? We had breakfast at a place called The Blue Plate Diner. Good diner food. Now we're off for the long drive to Albuquerque through southern Utah and Arizona. Okay, to be continued later. Jacques just showed up.
Denver was a bit dinkier than I was expecting as a city. I don't know why I was expecting more. But after my initial impression and being in it a little while, I started to enjoy it and find its own charm. The first thing we did when we pulled into town was eat at this place called Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs. It's Denver's version of Hot Doug's. It was some damn good stuff too. I had a dog that was rattlesnake and pheasant and the toppings were like cactus and stuff. Mmmm. And they had a Boylan's soda fountain. Mmmm. We walked around the street it was on a little bit. We went to find Wax Trax. I had a little trouble finding anything to buy. I did like the way they labeled their cards with information and stuff. I did end up getting Talking Heads: The Name of This Band Is Talking Heads. Mary Beth apparently found a great bookstore next door but they were just closing when she got there. Also, talking to the people there she found out that The Denver food to get is green chile fries. We stored this information for later use. We had some downtime at some bar (Cheeky Monk). Then we cruised down the street that has all the stuff on it. Down at the end of it (or the stuff anyway), we went to Tattered Cover (the bookstore people talk about). I got a few used ones: A High Wind in Jamaica by Richard Hughes, Homesick by Eshkol Nevo, Northern Lights by Tim O'Brien, and Butcher's Crossing by John Williams. Next door was another record store (Twist & Shout). The feel of the place was a lot cheesier than Wax Trax, but in the end I had an easier time finding stuff: Tangerine Dream: Encore, Francis Bebey: African Electronic Music 1975-1982, and Erik Satie: Piano Works (a 5 disc box, maximizing my minimalism). Then there was another bookstore we had seen at the other end of the street Mary Beth had wanted to get back to, but I took to long looking for cds and it was just closing when we got there. Oops. We also saw something down the street that looked like it should be one of these arcade bars that are apparently things in multiple cities. It was called 2 Up (in arcade font) but the building was very nondescript. Well, it sure as hell was an arcade bar! It was much less nerd-fantasy decor than Ground Kontrol had been. Aside from the walls of machines, it had the "decor" of a standard dive bar. I actually liked it in its own way. Very low key. I played my $5 worth of coins and had my fun playing games terribly. It turns out to be the second location of an arcade bar called (surprise) 1 Up. More on that later. Well, now it's eating time. Mary Beth had two places picked out and they were both closed (for the holiday, I guess). Well, now we wanted to try Denver's green chile fries so I made use of my new smart phone (this damn thing helped out so much on our trip, awesome) and found a place to go for it. Oh, it's closed too. We found ANOTHER place and this time we were much luckier: Pete's Satire Lounge. Not sure what it had to do with satire or lounging, but it was a good Mexican restaurant and the green chile fries were incredible (and they filled us up so much we didn't have any more room for our main courses). Okay, getting kinda late, better check into our damn hotel. It was this round tower kinda sorta similar to the place we stayed in Philly that time. And it was right next to Mile High Stadium. Well, our day in Denver just happened to be the Fourth of July so we're getting into our hotel as it's night and fireworks are going off all around us all over the city. Many from the stadium right next door, some from other locales around the city. The hotel staff knew who we were immediately because we were the last to check in for the day. Our room was facing downtown so there's fireworks all across the city. Some probably from the amusement park right in front of us along the little stream of a river. Some from the baseball stadium to our left. Some from somewhere off in the distance over to the right. Some sounds from the next door stadium (off to the right where we couldn't see from the room). Anyway, I'm not super into fireworks or anything, but there was something a little magical about the incidental nature of it all. Back out to the city. Mary Beth wanted to try this bar in a hotel downtown. It was very crowded, but it was all art deco'd out. When we left it was kinda crazy 'cuz the holiday festivities were ending and everybody was going home or to drink or whatever. We were nearby, so we thought we'd try the 1 Up bar. It's also right next to the baseball stadium, one of the centers of the evening's happenings. Didn't get to see the bar really. It's somewhat subterranean, we could see inside a little bit, but it was too crowded to get into. And lots of fratty types, where we were and the timing and all (though I read something about how that location is a bit like that and that's why 2 Up is better). Well, it was fun to know it's there anyway. Back to our moderately (for us) fancy hotel to sleep.
Now it's Friday and time to drive up to Idaho for the wedding. This brought us driving through Wyoming. Holy crap. Wyoming is one of the most beautiful states I've ever seen. The constant contrast of so much open plain and so much mountain hitting up against each other everywhere. It's silly, but this drive was a major highlight of the trip. In some ways, the landscape reminded me of my distant memories of New Zealand: the green, the hills, the rolling countryside. Then Idaho was beautiful in a way I wasn't expecting either. Kinda similar to Wyoming, but some differences. The first, major thing you notice is as soon as you cross the border...there are people. Oh yeah, I should remark on the town of Opal, WY pop. 96. Also, in Idaho we were more within the mountains. They were also softer somehow than the mountains of Wyoming. It was more pastoral. It reminded me of what I imagine the Irish countryside looks like. We got in pretty late and checked into our hotel and I looked at my phone to see if we could find someplace to eat and we did: Portneuf Valley Brewing. A little restaurant/brewery. They even make their own sarsaparilla. It was really good. It had a deep, complex flavor. The texture was a little weird (a goofy word for a liquid, I know). It wasn't very carbonated and didn't have quite the feel of a soda, but the taste helped balance that out. Okay, hotel and sleep.
Now comes Saturday and the whole reason for the trip. The wedding. First we get up to have breakfast at this place next door to the hotel called Elmer's. Didn't look like it from the outside, but turned out to be a chain (though only in the far west). It was pretty good and I even got to have "german pancakes" ("dutch baby" as I'm used to Mary Beth calling it when she makes it, never seen it anywhere out before though). Then we cruised around to check out the town. We found a little bookstore nearby where I picked up a couple: Aberration of Starlight by Gilbert Sorrentino and Obabakoak by Bernardo Atxaga. We ended up in the old downtown area, which was cute. Peeked in a thrift store. Peeked in a music gear store. Peeked in another bookstore. This one was better than the first. Big and old and stacked with shelves and shelves of books. And the old proprietress, a half-deaf hippie woman. Didn't end up getting anything myself though. I did like the feel of the place. Then it was time to rush back and get ready for the wedding. It was at the ski area Sarah's parents own and where she pretty much grew up, I guess. Up on a mountain, of course. The drive up was pretty nice and we got there faster than expected. The place wasn't like I'd imagined. I guess I have movie/tv images of ski resorts, all fancy and large etc. But it was small and felt like remote campground facilities. You know, just a center for people when they go skiing. The ceremony was held in a very small field next to the lodge on the mountainside. The view was abso-fucking-lutely incredible. I mean, you're just looking out across an expanse of mountains and valleys and it was pretty breathtaking. It was actually really hot up there. The sun, pretty much the whole trip, was a present force. Waiting for the wedding to start, we were all seated out there in the field. I was wearing the damn suit I'd dragged across the country just for this moment. While waiting, I took off my jacket. The actual ceremony was one of the nicer I've been to. It was what they called "hybrid-Jewish." Probably mostly Jewish at core, but incorporated other stuff too. Nate enjoyed being able to step on a glass. The reception was nice. We sat next to the only other couple from Memphis (though TFA implants from Wisconsin). We did eventually slow dance to "Spanish Lullabye." It was a lovely evening. Then back to our hotel.
Okay, so now we're off Sunday morning to go down to Utah. We got to eat at an actual Del Taco (not bad for roadside food). Before Salt Lake City, we did a nature excursion to Antelope Island on the lake. It was yet another great experience. The island has a large plain and some large hills with a few small roads. There was this buffalo just hanging out a little off one of the roads (to "Buffalo Point" no less). We looked at him and it was cool. Then we went to Buffalo Point which was one of those large hills and climbed up and climbed and could see everything expanding away from us. (I could even see the buffalo in the same spot, but now a black speck). Afterwards, sure enough, Buffalo Friend was still there and we stopped and (I) got a closer look. He was laying down now. But after a little bit, he shook around and gave himself a sand bath and got back up again. Okay, now we're heading back to SLC, which we're pretty close to. First thing when we get in town is to go to this bookstore, but it was all new stuff and I didn't get anything. Then there was this nearby record store I checked out. Skater/punk/metal fare. All the cds were behind the counter where I had to strain to still not see them. Then the dude told me they don't really buy cds anymore. Well, we went to try out a different part of town. I looked up a record store that seemed much better. Hm. Where is it? Oh, it closed a year ago. Okay, We went to Squatters which was another brewery. They also made a root beer. It was also very good. It wasn't quite as flavorful as the last but it did have a sharper fizzy feel which was nice. Next we found a hotel to check into amongst things. Then we went to The place to eat in SLC: Red Iguana. They had a bunch of different mole sauces and we ate and ate and stuffed ourselves beyond recognition. We went to one bar after that that should have been open but wasn't so we went to another bar. It had the cool feature of having a strip of coldness along the bar (all iced over) to keep your drinks cooler longer. I only had a water to put on it though. It was called Beehive Pub. I had no idea before this trip that Utah was such a beehive state. Now, as a city, I thought SLC was pretty lame, but the surrounding nature in Utah was pretty awesome.
It's, what, Monday morning? We had breakfast at a place called The Blue Plate Diner. Good diner food. Now we're off for the long drive to Albuquerque through southern Utah and Arizona. Okay, to be continued later. Jacques just showed up.